Monthly Archives: November 2001

rainy, cold and grey day…sitting at the bus stop. we have to move out asap. our landlord is giving us a hard time. she’s trying to quote contracts and we’re telling her we feel misled. she insists she told us about the sewer problem. why would we move in if this was true? round & round in circles we went. meanwhile it’s still raining and i will come home to yet another flood.

tiberius

driving up the winding ascent of mt. tabor, the setting sun blinding us as we make our endless approach up the mountain. We pass through castle gates and a road lined with storybook trees. At the top was a convent and a black and white cow with long lashes behind a gate with christian symbols. There were two monks in brown robes with thick white knots tied around their waists. We walked in all directions on top of the mountain admiring the views.

golden hour having past, we now make our way back to netanya. We’d just gotten lost in an Arab village where road rage was ever present and young boys carried bags of pita bread. We made a u-turn and stopped to ask a man handing his baby over to his wife figuring he wouldn’t possibly kill us in front of his family.

We are now on the road passing afula… there is fire in the clouds. We are driving straight at it. listening to loreena mckennit – a song about woodland days. a middle eastern pipe sound…

last night tsafi and i walked around tiberius with two small bottles of wine. We call this brown sweet wine, ‘hammer wine’ because it just hits you like a hammer! we sat in the outside parlor of a closed lakeside restaurant and stared in shock at the receding level of the kinneret. We’d past these dry beds where boats lie on soil unable to be floated out for use. There is no water. At least a twenty-foot receded line in the past three years. i saw the kinneret last January and it is a very noticeable difference even from then. We also couldn’t believe how many restaurants were closed. There are no tourists…

no tourists and no water.

i had picked up nightclub flyer for a place called ‘next’ and we’d had it in the bag all day. We asked some locals about it and they seemed to think it was a great place so they told us how to get there. We past an arcade and i went in looking for an air hockey table in vain to tell Diana about.

No air hockey, no tourists, no water…

but we made it to ‘next’ in a sketchy area of town next to a gas station. It was kewl inside though. Blue neon behind the bar, the ceiling was black paper mache with disco balls cut in half. They played 80’s music that tsafi and i sang all the words to. We sat, drank and talked like endless friends with our hands on each other’s knees and at 2am decided to head back to the holiday inn, where we were staying. We found a playground and he spun me around on this squeaky swirly thing.

before we headed into town that night, we sat with safta and her sister, atara, after dinner watching a Russian circus. safta and atara, having survived the holocaust, now get compensation from the german government and one of them is a two-week vacation in tiberius. They get massages and visit the hot springs free. I’m sure it’s no real compensation for what they’ve been through though… the circus consisted of seven Russians Each of them contributed to future nightmares, I’m sure. This one girl was almost 7 feet tall and skinny as a pole, dressed in some sequined dance-recital-reject outfit. Her trick was the hula hoops. She scared me… another act was a couple that threw knives at each other. The scariest was the juggler. He came out in a gold shiny suit. He juggled hats and cigarette boxes while 60’s music played.

tsafi woke early this morning to head off to his two-week army duty in the desert. i watched him top-less fastening his green belt over his army pants. He put elastic over his pants against his boots. i watched him walk from room to room. i wrote ‘i love you’ on a small green sticker and put it in his bag next to his hairbrush and sprinkled glitter into his sleeping clothes. He threw a duffle bag over his shoulders and left in a chilly morning to serve his country…. which freed me up to do naughty things..first i bought chocolate!!! then i walked to the sea and laid out in the sand and tracked sand throughout the house…

i also went to the dermatologist this morning. i was a half hour early and sat in the waiting room laughing at this toddler and her dog. The mother kept trying to get the small brown dog to stay under the carriage but when the baby ran to throw her bottle in a nearby garbage can, the dog would make his escape. The mother would put the dog back and the whole comedy would start up again. me and the old man next to me would laugh silly.

I am on my way to a 12km hike in the desert. a man named cecil and his wife picked me up at 5:30pm. They are from south Africa They moved here 30 years ago and have four children that all live in the same town as them. i am very excited to see more of Israel today.

orange earth, tilted trees in unison, dark hills in the distance, electrical lines, beduin villages. i awoke from a nap with an overhead bag falling on me and elton john singing ‘goodbye yellowbrick road’. Later i would joke to the man whose bag fell on my head and he would say seriously “thank you for breaking it’s fall.”

i just saw my first camel~*~!

there are Beduin villages to the right and left of us. We are south of beer shevah. passed the old turkish railway, talk of old spice routes and why the Beduin cannot be relocated; grape vines in desert sand, a farm that makes cheese, hills like afghanistan. We are bumping along thin tracks near a tomato farm. The bus is having a hard time getting on. There is a tractor and people in the fields. The bus comes to a complete stop and i notice all around me are water pipes on wheels.